Disclaimer: It was NOT my intention when I began this adventure to post daily . . . but so much happens each day that I feel compelled to share about . . .
Like most mornings, we are up early and ready to roll around 10 AM. Today's adventure is a full-day exploration of the Dade's Valley. Leaving Skoura — known as the Valley of 1000 Kasbahs — we head northeast. This arid land is geologically fascinating with the uplifted rock formations and life-giving Dadés River. The Valley is set between the High Atlas Mountains to the north and the Jbel Sarhro to the south.
We pass through El-Kelaa M'Gouna — City of Roses — so named because during this time of year this area is literally covered in roses. Men are even standing along the roadside selling wreaths made of local roses. It is believed that pilgrims from Saudi Arabia brought rosa damascena with them in the 10th century. Tons of rose petals are harvested each year to be made into rose water for culinary and beauty purposes. In fact, this town produces the entire nations' products of eau de rose! Later, on our return to our hotel we will stop here at a distillation cooperative to learn about the distillation process and sample (buy) rose water and other rose products such as lotions, soaps, oil and perfume.
But now we are on a mission . . . to visit Bouthgrar — Valley of Nomads. Leaving pavement we drive stop in a tiny rural village to buy out all the boxes of pens a local shopkeeper has and distribute to the many children who are on lunch recess from school. Scores of children materialize as Jewel and I give out blue, red and black pens. Like young thieves, the children want more; pretending that they have not received one or that they are asking for an invisible sibling. I learned years ago in Peru that it is best to give children useful things like pens and pencils rather than candy, as well as supporting local businesses rather than bringing them from home. It certainly worked here . . . the shop owner, who was first skeptical of our request translated by Tehar, now smiles as he's pocketed hundreds of dirham and watches the excited and happy children gathered outside his shop. Even young mothers don't turn away or hide their faces as their young children proudly show the pens they were given. We discover again that it is through meaningful ways of being with people that barriers quickly break down between us and them!
But now we are on a mission . . . to visit Bouthgrar — Valley of Nomads. Leaving pavement we drive stop in a tiny rural village to buy out all the boxes of pens a local shopkeeper has and distribute to the many children who are on lunch recess from school. Scores of children materialize as Jewel and I give out blue, red and black pens. Like young thieves, the children want more; pretending that they have not received one or that they are asking for an invisible sibling. I learned years ago in Peru that it is best to give children useful things like pens and pencils rather than candy, as well as supporting local businesses rather than bringing them from home. It certainly worked here . . . the shop owner, who was first skeptical of our request translated by Tehar, now smiles as he's pocketed hundreds of dirham and watches the excited and happy children gathered outside his shop. Even young mothers don't turn away or hide their faces as their young children proudly show the pens they were given. We discover again that it is through meaningful ways of being with people that barriers quickly break down between us and them!
Continuing on we become grateful for our 4-wheel drive vehicle and Tehar's masterful driving skills. The Valley of Nomads is stunningly beautiful with a rough track that serves as a "road." It seems to take forever to reach our next destination, but that is because I am continually asking Tehar to "Stop, pull over, please!" In truth, the valley is only 10 km, but thankfully Jewel is an avid photographer so I don't feel totally self-indulgent :)
Much to our surprise, we arrive. Below "road" grade are several caves and small tent-like structures that have been excavated by a nomadic family of goat herders. Though they are away tending their herd, we are welcomed by an older daughter and young son for tea. During the course of our visit several bits of incongruous information surface: 1) the daughter lives in a town about 40 km away and visits weekly with a donkey to bring supplies; 2) in the middle of nowhere and without any creature comforts such as electricity, plumbing or running water nearby, her cell phone rings; 3) the family is "considering" sending the young son to school; 4) after tea is poured and we begin to drink it, we are told the women has the flu and it dawn on us that the water is neither bottled or who knows to what extent it was boiled; 5) the young woman is pregnant. After taking a few pictures, thanking her for her hospitality and leaving monetary gifts for her family to be used, in part, for the young son's education, we leave wondering whether the dirhams left behind will in total (or part) be given to her parents!
To be continued . . .