After our sunrise camel ride and breakfast it is time to move on. Today we skirt the desert heading southwest to N'kob. Along the way we stop in the village of Alnif (for coffee, a bathroom, and a visit to the market for this is village renown for its cumin. Here we each buy a large bag filled with the aromatic herb that gives distinctive flavor to so many of the dishes I have fallen in love. Freshly ground cumin sits on many a dining table alongside salt as a nutty peppery flavor enhancer. High in iron and manganese, it is a key element to energy production and metabolism. The drive through this portion of Morocco is stark and dramatic.
More about Alnif Cumin
The village of Alnif is located in southeastern Morocco at an altitude of 880 meters (2,887 feet) in a bare, rocky, red-earthed valley at the foot of the eastern Anti-Atlas mountains (High Atlas). While durum wheat, dates, almonds, oranges and figs are grown in the oasis in this region, the most intriguing products from this arid landscape are henna and cumin.
Originally from Asia, the cumin plant in this area is prized for its quality and intense aroma. It is planted at the end of January and harvested between the end of April and beginning of May before the plant has completely ripened and loses most of its seeds. The cumin is cut manually with a sickle, made into bunches and hung on a stick to dry in the shade before being beaten to release the seeds. The seeds are sieved several times, using a container made of woven palm leaves, to remove dust and fine straw. They can keep for up to two years and are stone ground when needed using a traditional mill.
It is generally the women who harvest and process this most fundamental ingredient used in Moroccan cuisine. Cumin is used to prepare tangines, couscous, and traditional soups. It is also excellent with vegetables and meats. It has various curative properties is is used in traditional medicine to treat coughs, colds, sinusitis, and colic.
Originally from Asia, the cumin plant in this area is prized for its quality and intense aroma. It is planted at the end of January and harvested between the end of April and beginning of May before the plant has completely ripened and loses most of its seeds. The cumin is cut manually with a sickle, made into bunches and hung on a stick to dry in the shade before being beaten to release the seeds. The seeds are sieved several times, using a container made of woven palm leaves, to remove dust and fine straw. They can keep for up to two years and are stone ground when needed using a traditional mill.
It is generally the women who harvest and process this most fundamental ingredient used in Moroccan cuisine. Cumin is used to prepare tangines, couscous, and traditional soups. It is also excellent with vegetables and meats. It has various curative properties is is used in traditional medicine to treat coughs, colds, sinusitis, and colic.
Outside N'kob, we take the road to Ait Ouzzine, a village nestled within the Saghro and High Atlas Mountains along a desert route that connects the Draa Valley and Rissani. In this 300-family Berber village, we are to meet and have lunch with Travel Exploration Morocco's owner Alecia's husband's family.
Upon arriving we are graciously welcomed into their interior courtyard by brother-in-law Brahim, who in turn introduces us to his mother, Eto, and sisters Houddim, Elho, Aicha, Fatima, Zahra. Homes like this typically we are told house several generations of family. Children, regardless of who they belong to generally share a bedroom. Everyone has duties and chores — some of which seem to rotate and others are fixed based upon skill.
Taking off our shoes, we move into a sitting area that is thickly carpeted by rugs hand-knottedd by several of the sisters. Large pillows line the wall. We all sit on the floor leaning against the pillows. Elho, the oldest sister-in-law, expertly pours out the mint tea, which is handed around. Over the course of our Morocco adventure, we are learning that the making and serving of mint tea is a refined skill. Almonds are served as an accompaniment.
Lunch has been prepared by sister-in-law Fatima, who prepares a lamb couscous and local bread. In the same room, we sit on the floor around a low table covered with several layers of plastic. The meal sits in the middle on a large platter — with small plates in front of us. I opt to eat as the Berbers . . . using my right hand and bread to use as a scoop, we each silently eat what would be likened to a slice of pie in front of us. The meal is delicious! For dessert, fresh local fruits are served.
After lunch, Brahim takes us on a walking tour of his village. We learn that Alecia has started a recycling program that is successful when she is present and falls off when she is not. It is hard, we are told, to change the ways of the people. We are also told that this part of Morocco has not seen rain in three-years. The severe draught is having drastic effects on their food production. We are then shown the family's "barnyard" — goats, sheep, chickens — and garden of fruits and vegetables. Gypsy eyes a donkey basket, which she has been coveting since early on in our trip and negotiates a purchase.
Returning to the family compound, we lounge in the courtyard under the shade of an eave as one of our hands is painted by a teenage cousin Malika with henna. It is a lovely, relaxing afternoon that has given us more insight into the lives of Berber families.
Upon arriving we are graciously welcomed into their interior courtyard by brother-in-law Brahim, who in turn introduces us to his mother, Eto, and sisters Houddim, Elho, Aicha, Fatima, Zahra. Homes like this typically we are told house several generations of family. Children, regardless of who they belong to generally share a bedroom. Everyone has duties and chores — some of which seem to rotate and others are fixed based upon skill.
Taking off our shoes, we move into a sitting area that is thickly carpeted by rugs hand-knottedd by several of the sisters. Large pillows line the wall. We all sit on the floor leaning against the pillows. Elho, the oldest sister-in-law, expertly pours out the mint tea, which is handed around. Over the course of our Morocco adventure, we are learning that the making and serving of mint tea is a refined skill. Almonds are served as an accompaniment.
Lunch has been prepared by sister-in-law Fatima, who prepares a lamb couscous and local bread. In the same room, we sit on the floor around a low table covered with several layers of plastic. The meal sits in the middle on a large platter — with small plates in front of us. I opt to eat as the Berbers . . . using my right hand and bread to use as a scoop, we each silently eat what would be likened to a slice of pie in front of us. The meal is delicious! For dessert, fresh local fruits are served.
After lunch, Brahim takes us on a walking tour of his village. We learn that Alecia has started a recycling program that is successful when she is present and falls off when she is not. It is hard, we are told, to change the ways of the people. We are also told that this part of Morocco has not seen rain in three-years. The severe draught is having drastic effects on their food production. We are then shown the family's "barnyard" — goats, sheep, chickens — and garden of fruits and vegetables. Gypsy eyes a donkey basket, which she has been coveting since early on in our trip and negotiates a purchase.
Returning to the family compound, we lounge in the courtyard under the shade of an eave as one of our hands is painted by a teenage cousin Malika with henna. It is a lovely, relaxing afternoon that has given us more insight into the lives of Berber families.
Thankfully, we are staying nearby at Kasbah Ait Omar in N'kob, which is a beautifully restored and converted kasbah located in the old Mellah section by a German couple who happened to visit the area a number of years ago and stayed.
The rooms are as lovely as the food — only wish I found the pool sooner! There are only 9 apartments; 2 single rooms, 1 large separate apartment; and 2 double rooms. There is also a yoga room and a very attractive hammam, which I didn't have an opportunity to book an appointment :(
The owner's philosophy revolves around sustainability and conservation of resources. The Kasbah's hot water is solar heated and there is not daily room service. In fact, when you check into your room fresh linens are at the foot of the bed for you to make up yourself!
I especially loved the hand-made poly-chromed doors throughout the Kasbah, which were made by a Moroccan craftsman in Tioute. Unfortunately, that is in a region that we will not be visiting this time. If the owners had been willing to see some of the doors to me, I would have bought several . . .
The rooms are as lovely as the food — only wish I found the pool sooner! There are only 9 apartments; 2 single rooms, 1 large separate apartment; and 2 double rooms. There is also a yoga room and a very attractive hammam, which I didn't have an opportunity to book an appointment :(
The owner's philosophy revolves around sustainability and conservation of resources. The Kasbah's hot water is solar heated and there is not daily room service. In fact, when you check into your room fresh linens are at the foot of the bed for you to make up yourself!
I especially loved the hand-made poly-chromed doors throughout the Kasbah, which were made by a Moroccan craftsman in Tioute. Unfortunately, that is in a region that we will not be visiting this time. If the owners had been willing to see some of the doors to me, I would have bought several . . .