We meet our female city guide Rachida this morning after breakfast for a full-day of exploration and picture-taking. Essaouira, I may have failed to comment earlier, is surprisingly cool to downright cold. Trade winds blow in from the Atlantic Ocean throughout the summer. On the positive side, I am finally getting to wear some of the clothes that I thought might be of use in the desert at night. Instead of yearning to lie on the beach, I am bundled in a Koru opossum and merino vest and a raincoat that acts like a windbreaker this morning. |
We learn that back in the 7th century BC, the Phoenicians founded a base here and in the 1st century BC it was the center for the manufacturing of purple dye derived from a shellfish that inhabits the coast. Later, in the 15th century, the Portuguese established a military presence and trading center they named Mogador. However, it wasn't until the mid 1700s that the town, harbor and fortifications were built by Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah (Mohammed III).
Our first stop is to ramparts facing the sea, which are crenellated to give protection from naval attack. Designed in the Islamic style, they are built of stone with three gates or "Babs" that lead into the medina. At the Sqala de la Ville — one of two sea bastions — are a row of Spanish cannons that were used to defend the northern end of the city.
Our first stop is to ramparts facing the sea, which are crenellated to give protection from naval attack. Designed in the Islamic style, they are built of stone with three gates or "Babs" that lead into the medina. At the Sqala de la Ville — one of two sea bastions — are a row of Spanish cannons that were used to defend the northern end of the city.
From here, we follow the rampart wall past stalls and shops to the Sqala du Port where the fishing fleet is harbored. In the 18th century, forty percent of Atlantic sea traffic passed through Essaouria, and more recently it was one of Morocco's largest sardine ports. Today, however only about 500 or so families make their living from fishing. We wind our way past fish vendors and boat builders. Due to high winds, the fishing fleet has been in port for several days.